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A Guide To Soakaway Systems
If you're dealing with water pooling around your property after heavy rains, installing a soakaway might be the solution you're looking for. A soakaway is essentially a large hole dug into your garden that collects excess rainwater and allows it to seep into the ground gradually, preventing waterlogging and unsightly puddles.
Key points to keep in mind:
- A soakaway system prevents surface water pooling and is an environmentally friendly drainage option.
- It's important to ensure the soakaway is not connected to the sewer system, as this is both illegal and can cause overflows.
- A professional drainage engineer should conduct a percolation test and assess the roof pitch to determine suitability and calculate the necessary size.
- A soakaway system typically includes soakaway crates, underground drainage pipes, geotextile membranes, waterproof tape, shingle, and topsoil.
Not only is a soakaway a cost-effective solution, but it's also relatively easy to install, durable, and environmentally friendly. Here's a quick overview of what they do, what components are needed, and how to ensure they last for years.
When setting up a soakaway, it’s usually placed at least 5 to 10 meters away from a building (minimum 5 meters from a building or retaining wall). Rainwater should be directed towards it from the existing drainage system, where it can then slowly percolate into the ground. Using crates helps create a large void underground where water can drain away, keeping your yard or garden dry. If your property slopes, dig the pit at a lower point so water flows naturally toward the soakaway.
Just remember, never discharge sewage into your system, as it can cause blockages and is against the law. Similarly, releasing rainwater into the sewer system is prohibited as it can overwhelm treatment facilities and result in untreated waste being released into rivers. Hence, a soakaway is a legal and practical way to manage rainwater.
Before starting, check local planning regulations because certain areas may prohibit soakaways. Also, verify your soil’s absorption rate with a percolation test – if the soil is too soft, it won’t absorb water effectively, making a soakaway ineffective.
A typical soakaway system comprises several components:
**Soakaway Crate:** These crates form the core of your system, collecting water and allowing it to drain out gradually. Modular crates can be stacked and positioned based on the size and design of your soakaway, working alongside permeable membranes and pipes to reduce surface water. You can purchase a complete crate kit, which usually includes everything except the drainage pipe and gravel.
**Underground Drainage Pipe:** Once the pit is dug, you'll need to excavate a trench for the underground drainage pipe connecting to your rainwater drainage system. If a silt trap is used, ensure it’s part of the pipeline between the rainwater drainage and the soakaway system. Some crates have inlets, while others may need an inlet created with a hole saw. Alternatively, you can lay the pipe on top of the crates before wrapping them in non-woven geotextile to prevent debris from entering.
**Geotextile Membrane:** This is a permeable fabric that stops debris from entering the soakaway crates while allowing water to pass through. For soakaways, a non-woven membrane is ideal – simply line the crate sides with it and secure it with tape. Avoid using a woven membrane as it retains water instead of letting it drain.
**Waterproof Tape:** Used to seal the membrane joints.
**Shingle:** After placing the non-woven geotextile-lined crates, fill the sides and top with pea shingle (typically 20mm) and cover with soil and other landscaping materials. Use pea shingle, not sharp-edged gravel, to avoid damaging the membrane.
**Gravel / Topsoil:** Provides a protective layer above the soakaway system, usually requiring at least 400mm of coverage.
**Silt Trap:** Optional but recommended, a silt trap can extend the life of your system by capturing debris and preventing blockages in the crates and pipes. Regular maintenance, such as emptying the trap, is necessary but worthwhile in the long run.
Installing a soakaway is fairly straightforward, but it’s crucial to ensure the size and type match the amount of roof area or standing water you need to manage. You don’t want to invest in a system that fails to handle the volume of water it needs to process. Consider the soil type and the capacity of the crates before purchasing.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to installing a soakaway:
1. Dig a pit for the crates.
2. Excavate a trench for the drainage pipe leading to the crates.
3. Add 150mm of 20mm pea shingle to the pit base.
4. Lay the membrane at the pit’s bottom, ensuring enough overhang to cover the crate sides and top.
5. Place the crates into the pit on top of the membrane.
6. Wrap the entire system with the membrane, including the inlet pipe.
7. Fill the crate sides and top with 150mm of pea shingle.
8. Replace the soil with at least 400mm of cover.
If using a silt trap, integrate it into the drainage pipe run.
Maintenance is essential to avoid blockages. Unfortunately, once a soakaway system is installed, unblocking it is nearly impossible. This is why a silt trap is highly recommended, even though it adds initial cost. Over time, it can save you significant expenses.
Finally, the difference between a soakaway and an attenuation system lies in their purpose. A soakaway drains water directly back into the soil, while an attenuation system stores water temporarily before releasing it elsewhere.
For assistance choosing the best option, feel free to reach out – we’re happy to help!
Products like soakaway crates, geotextiles, and tapes are available to make the installation process smoother. Ensure you select the right materials to maximize the efficiency and longevity of your soakaway system.